Court of Swans: Haute Couture in the 14th Century

For you fashionistas . . . I’d like to continue our Book Club discussion of Court of Swans by Melanie Dickerson with a few revelations about how Delia dressed before she became a servant. Costume historian James Laver believes that the mid-14^th century marked the emergence of recognizable fashion. Most notably, seamstresses began tailoring clothing to their clients, adding laces and buttons to allow more snug fits.

While most of the population slept . . . gasp . . . without clothing, Delia, the daughter of an earl would have slept in the chemise she wore the previous day. Special nightwear didn’t become common until the 16^th century. In the morning, Delia would take off the chemise, add a breast girdle or breast band, and throw on a fresh chemise. Also known as a shift, a chemise is a smock-type undergarment, either linen or wool depending on the season. Its primary function is to protect clothing from sweat and body oils.

Delia would add a long-sleeved kirtle, also called a cotte, over the chemise. The fitted sleeves would extend all the way to her knuckles. By the 14^th century, kirtles had evolved from loose garments without a waist seam to a tightly fitted supportive garment with wide skirts. Kirtles could lace up the front, back or sides. Trains could be added for formal occasions. During the winter, Delia might have thrown a robe over the kirtle for warmth. She most definitely would have worn hose, though they covered only her lower legs.

Married women almost always wore head coverings. Though Delia was unmarried, her station in life dictated that she add some sort of headwear before a public appearance. According to Wikipedia, “the Middle Ages, particularly the 14^th and 15^th centuries, were home to some of the most outstanding and gravity-defying headwear in history.” Delia could choose from barbets (bands of linen that passed under the chin and tied on top of the head), cauls (fabric that entirely covered the hair), coifs (close-fitting caps), and coronets (small ornamental crowns without arches).

When she travelled outdoors, Delia would don a cloak, called the Houppelande or goun, often lined in fur. You can still see it today at graduations and in courtrooms worn by academics and those in the legal field.

Delia would have worn long pointed leather shoes called poulaines with fabric stuffed in the toes to help them hold their shape.

On a sidenote, King Richard II, who plays a major role in Court of Swans, was known for his refined fashion sense. He’s credited with the invention of the handkerchief. “Little pieces [of cloth] for the lord King to wipe and clean his nose” appear in the royal household accounts, which is the first documentation of their use. 

How do you think Delia adjusted from having to leave her fashionable clothes behind in her closet while she served as a seamstress? And what were her thoughts when she pulled them out to wear again? 

Resources:
— Images from Wikipedia
— Laver, James: The Concise History of Costume and Fashion, Abrams, 1979